Fenghuang Dancong, a unique category of wulong tea, is grown in the crisp-aired Fenghuang (Phoenix) Mountains. It's story blends together tales of trade, myth, and modern resurgence. We'll trace its roots, from Emperor Zhao Bing's southern exodus to Shui Xian's debut at the Panama-Pacific World’s Fair, and learn how it became one of the primary growing regions in Eastern China.

The Song Dynasty 

The true origins of Fenghuang Dancong are lost. When written records fall silent, myth and legend speak.

One legend recites the story of Emperor Zhao Bing, the final ruler of the Song Dynasty. In 1279, the seven-year-old sovereign passed through Wudong Mountain while fleeing from the Mongolians. Parched and tired, each step grew heavier. Desperate to revive him, an attendant gathered fresh tea leaves from the mountainside and added them to hot water. 

As Zhao Bing sipped the warm, bitter drink, strength flowed into his arms and legs. To honor the drink that saved his life, the emperor named the leaves “Song Cha” (宋茶 - Song Dynasty Tea), a name that later became “Song Zhong” (宋种 - The Song Dynasty Type). Noticing a bird flying around, he renamed the area “Phoenix Mountain.”

If this legened is true, the young emperor launched tea cultivation in the region, all set in motion by one momentous sip.

The She People (畲族)

Centuries before Zhao Bing passed through Wudong Mountain, the She people (畲族) arrived first. The She are an ancient people, known for their farming skills and folklore, who are still alive today. Though now dispersed throughout China, the She still regard the Fenghuang Mountains as their home. They were almost certainly the first to plant tea trees in the area. 

The She people tell a story about their dog-headed god, Pan Hu (盘瓠), and his brother Wu Long (吴龙), a name that echoes the word ‘wulong’ (乌龙), the Mandarin word for oolong tea. According to the legend, Wu Long transformed himself into a lush vine,  inadvertently entangling his brother Pan Hu and killing him. Overwhelmed with grief, Wu Long metamorphosed into a tea bush to atone, becoming the first tea tree in the Fenghuang Mountains.

Even today, the phoenix appears on She totems across China, possibly a nod to their ancestral mountains. Although many She people migrated across China during the Tang Dynasty, a small group remains in the Fenghuang Mountains. About 300 people continue to live in Shiguping Village, in the shadow of the Phoenix Mountains.

Looking Past Legends

These intertwined legends — of emperors and gods — weave a rich tapestry over Fenghuang Dancong’s unknown origins. While the tale of Emperor Zhao Bing provides a story of royal approval, the She people’s legends suggest that tea cultivation began much earlier. The She lived here for centuries before Emperor Zhao Bing, suggesting they were likely the first to cultivate tea in the region.

It is also possible that the legends involving Emperor Zhao Bing were built over existing She traditions and stories. Or perhaps both were created by people living in more contemporary times to make sense of the distant past. We should see them as traditions rather than history. Lacking archaeological or written evidence, these stories are all we have.

1900–1950: An Early Golden Age

The early 20th century was Fenghuang tea's first golden age. In 1915, amid the uproar of the Republic of China era, the Fenghuang Chunming Tea Company brought their Shui Xian to the larger world. They sent a little over one kilogram (2 斤) to the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco — a world’s fair filled with inventions, lights, auto races, and global foods. The Liberty Bell was shipped from Philadelphia, and a telephone line was installed from New York to California. This world’s fair, held to celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, offered each participating nation a chance to showcase its cultural achievements.

With its fragrant and toasted leaves, Shui Xian stood in stark contrast to the bitter, robust teas from Ceylon and India at the time. It won a silver medal, enchanting judges and capturing the curiosity of passersby. From that moment, Shui Xian’s reputation bloomed beyond China’s borders, debuting on the world's stage. 

By the 1930s, entrepreneurs from Chaozhou set sail for new markets, establishing more than 50 tea shops in Cambodia, Vietnam, and Thailand. These shops must have been vibrant cross-cultural hubs, bringing Fenghuang tea to local drinkers. These were boom years for the local tea trade, a time of speedy growth and expansion. 

But the good years couldn't last forever. The early 1940s dealt a series of devastating blows. First, an unexpected frost destroyed the tea crops. Then came drought and famine. Finally, inflation ransacked the economy, sending the market into total collapse. By 1948, the once-lush tea fields dwindled to a little over 400 acres, with many abandoned and overgrown. The tea industry, once thriving, was on the brink of extinction.

1950–2000: Rebuilding and Reviving

In the aftermath of the turmoil, resilience took root in the Phoenix Mountains. In the second half of the 20th century, China underwent major transformations, and the Fenghuang Region was no exception. Recognizing their cultural heritage and eager to resurrect their economy, local leaders and farmers came together to breathe life back into the withered fields.

They established a centralized hub for processing and selling Dancong tea, restoring the quality and consistency lost during the tumultuous years. Tight-knit village cooperatives began to emerge in Wuchong, Daping, Dongjiao, and Fengxi — working communities where knowledge was shared, resources pooled, and traditions revived. Elders passed down their teamaking craft, and a new generation took up the work.

The central government’s designation of Fenghuang Dancong as a “special product” was a turning point. The government set its price higher than any other Chinese wulong tea, recognizing the community's craft and effort. By the 1980s, the region boasted approximately 3,300 acres of thriving tea plantations — a remarkable turnaround from the sparse, abandoned fields of previous decades.

2000–Present: A New Renaissance

Fenghuang Dancong has not only survived but flourished in the 21st century. Local farmers light up as they talk about the growing international interest in their teas. One farmer shared that he now travels to Japan every year to collaborate with tea companies that distribute his teas abroad. As he spoke about these opportunities, his enthusiasm was unmistakable; optimism is back in the mountain air.

Tea tourism has blossomed, making the Phoenix Mountains a must-visit for tea lovers. You can drive winding roads through terraced fields, take in the crisp mountain air, and taste Chaozhou-style brewing. The region’s profile rose even further with its 2008 designation as the ‘Hometown of Famous Chinese Tea’ and the 2021 opening of the Fenghuang Dancong Tea Museum, offering a central hub to explore the history and culture of this region.

Among the many Dancong varieties, Ya Shi Xiang — or “Duck Shit Aroma”— has surpassed the once-favored Shui Xian. Despite its disturbing name, its mellow, creamy flavor wins over skeptics. It's a testament to the community’s humor and confidence in their craft. As Professor Zhang Tianfu, a revered 98-year-old tea scholar from Fujian Agricultural University, once remarked during a visit to Wudong Village, “凤凰单丛茶，清香满天涯” — “Phoenix Dancong Tea, its pure and delicate fragrance reaches the furthest corners of the world.”

Sources

• “茶乡概说.”潮州凤凰单丛茶博物馆, 凤凰镇. October 2024.
• “广东凤凰山是公认的畲族祖居地…” 潮州凤凰单丛茶博物馆, 凤凰镇. October 2024.
• “近代凤凰茶叶大事记.” 潮州凤凰单丛茶博物馆, 凤凰镇. October 2024.
• 徐馨雅, editor. 茶道 茶艺 茶经 (Tea Ceremony, Tea Art, Tea Classic). 中国华侨出版社, 2014.
• “The Ancient Trees & Lore of Feng Huang Shan.” Tea Drunk, 18 Apr. 2023, www.teadrunk.com/blogs/educational-articles/the-ancient-trees-lore-of-feng-huang-shan.

Explore Further

• Tea: An Overview
• Table of Contents