There are two distinct strains of Bi Luo Chun (碧螺春) plants that are sold. Despite sharing the same name, they have nothing in common. The well-known strain is found in Mainland China, while the other comes from near Taipei (San Xia) and is a completely separate cultivar.

To differentiate between Mainland and Taiwan Bi Luo Chun, the first step is to closely examine how their leaves have been processed. Mainland Bi Luo Chun has been delicately rolled into small balls resembling a snail shell, showcasing a range of hues from pale yellow to deep forest green. On the other hand, Taiwan Bi Luo Chun lacks the characteristic rolling of its cousin and presents itself with loosely assembled, withered leaves. The Taiwan varietal also tends to have larger leaf sizes and a lower presence of trichomes (白毫 ).

So why do they share the same name?

To crack this mystery, I interviewed Taiwanese people (both tea lovers and industry professionals) to hear their thoughts. The stories I gathered centered around the roughly one million individuals from Mainland China who migrated to Taiwan during the 20th century. These individuals sought out the green teas that were commonly produced in Eastern China, but were unable to find them in their new homeland.

In Taiwan, local tea producers - some of whom were themselves these newly settled immigrants - aimed to replicate the taste of Longjing (龙井) and Bi Luo Chun. Lacking access to authentic plants, they utilized local varieties grown in Taiwan and employed production techniques like Pan-Firing (炒青). Through the use of this kill-green method, teas with similar flavor profiles were produced and given the same name, which has remained unchanged ever since.

Interested in trying for yourself?

• Winter In New Taipei San Xia Bi Luo Chun
• Spring In New Taipei San Tia Bi Luo Chun